After a delicious group dinner last night, I was too tired to think of anything but sleep. There was a “Pilgrim’s Mass” scheduled for 8:30pm but I was already in bed.

I was up early and on the Road by 8:00am. The alburgue had “breakfast” included but it turned out to be bread with Nutella. I despise Nutella. I had a cup of coffee, a glass of juice and snagged a small slice of butter cake for later. The sun was just rising

The road to Torres del Rio was mostly smooth and fairly flat. It was a little less than 5 miles total. I walked at my usual slow pace and bid “Buen Camino” to those passing me.

Soon I saw Sansol, the first village, in the distance. Shortly after was Torres del Rio. This is where A Decision would be made.

But before any kind of decision, I needed some sustenance. Spain has a much different idea of mealtimes than we do in the states and sometimes when you most need a proper meal, everything is closed. But it was 10:00am; surely SOME place would be serving breakfast!

I came to a likely looking cafe and asked if they were serving “desayuno” (breakfast.) “Si!” was the response. “Toast?”

I finally made it known that I wanted “comidas” – a meal. I got eggs, sausage, bread and juice.

Then I reviewed the rest of my route for today. I needed to get to Viana…only about 6 miles but lots of ups and downs. I checked the terrain on the “Wise Pilgrim” website and this is what it said:

The stretch between here and Viana has the nickname ‘The Knee Wrecker’ because of its frequent ups and downs. The only place for shade and pause is at the Capilla de la Virgen del Poyo where a seasonal food kiosk sets up shop.

And that settled it. I was going to take the bus to Viana. There were only a couple a day and one left in about half an hour. I found my way to the roadside stop and who should be sitting there but Marianna, my Italian friend from a couple of days ago.

She had been having knee problems and had bussed to Torres del Rio from Estella the day before and was planning to take the bus all the way to Longrono. She was feeling very discouraged and like she had failed. I told her that I was planning to ditch my carefully laid plans and let the Camino guide me.

It was a relief to be on the bus. The scenery whisked by (along with several Pilgrims making their way up and down) and soon I was in Viana. I climbed the hill in search of my Pension (yes, a private room again because why not!?)

I walked to the square where there was a beautiful old cathedral.

My pension was down one of the streets and I was greeted by a effusively friendly woman with brightly dyed auburn hair. She spoke to me loudly and slowly in Spanish, but somehow I could (mostly) understand her. My room was ready, with a comfortable bed, a balcony and the smallest bathroom I have ever seen.

I went out and finally got a proper meal…stuffed eggplant, pork loin, rice pudding and wine. Always included and they just uncork a bottle and leave it on the table!

And now, after a shower and some time to put my feet up, I’m having a glass (or two) of “vino tinto” right outside the church walls. Tomorrow it’s about 6 miles to Longrono. And then…well, then we’ll see. I am inclined to stop pushing for a certain destination and just..:walk. Until it’s time to go home.

After considering several options, I decided to have my pack transported to my next Alburgue and walk the 13+ miles to Los Arcos with just a little light “string bag.” It turned out to be an excellent decision. I brought my water bottle, sandals, and my mini-first aid kit and left the rest tagged and ready to go.

I left Estella at about 8:30am and stopped in Auegui, the first town, to grab some food and fruit. It was a beautiful, sunny day and chilly enough so that I still needed my down vest.

Soon I came to Irache, with its famous “wine fountain.” I had a sip and it was quite good! Irache is a wine town, of course, and I’d be walking through wine country for the rest of the day.

I knew the walk to Villamayor de Montejardin was mostly up hill and the last mile or so pretty steep so I got myself going. The scenery was gorgeous.

After a while I saw the little Village of Azqueta rising in the distance. This was the stop before the big uphill push.

I sat on a bench and ate an orange. For strength. Then I slowly started up the hill, stopping frequently. Still beautiful scenery.

When I was almost to the town I passed this interesting structure. It looked like a mikvah – a Jewish ritual bath. But the sign up the road said it was a “fuente medieval”.

Finally I reached the town and found a place to sit down, charge my phone, and eat something.

The next 7 miles weren’t difficult terrain but they were all along a dirt road with little shade. About a mile out I switched into my sandals. Then I walked. And walked. And walked some more. So much walking.

I was exceedingly happy to see this sign….

And even happier to see this one…

My backpack had arrived safe and sound and the proprietor greeted me by name. Apparently I’d booked myself a private room here, which I don’t remember doing but I was glad to get it! A hot shower felt like heaven and there’s dinner in a little while. And my room has a balcony!

Tomorrow it’s on to Viana…10+ miles with a lot of ups and downs. I may get my pack transported again…it makes a huge difference.

Today I got started right after sunrise. That’s not as ambitious as it sounds, since the sun doesn’t rise until almost 8:00am. But it was really quite pretty.

I’d had a coffee and was carrying a “picnic meal” provided by the hostel for €3. After about a mile I came upon a lovely “GardZen” rest stop where I sat to eat my food. Well, my juice box, and a tiny roll with one slice of cheese. I saved the apple for later.

I figured that when I got to Lorca, the first village, I’d get a proper meal. The road was a little hilly and bordered the highway. Some nice scenery.

I was so happy to see Lorca in the distance. I was hungry and two of my toenails were bothering me. I wanted to sit, eat and possibly take my shoes off. And a bathroom would be nice.

Nothing was open in Lorca. Nothing. Not even a place to sit. The next town, Villatuerta, was almost 5 km away. About a half mile out of Lorca, I found a convenient rock to sit on, ate the apple and put my foot up for a few minutes. Then I continued to walk. Luckily the path was level and finally I came to Villatuerta. This looked more promising.

Many more pilgrims were coming along the road. I sat on a bench in the town square and who should I see but Astrid and Christoph! They encouraged me on my progress and said they might see me in Estella.

Meanwhile, I needed to do something about my toes. Google maps showed me an open pharmacy right on the Way. I found a little cafe right before it and got myself an energy drink – strangely I wasn’t feeling hungry. I bought nail clippers (small ones, they were out of proper toenail clippers) and sat down on a bench to view the damage.

I will spare you any actual pictures. Two toenails on my left foot were NOT happy. I clipped them back as much as possible and slathered them with antiseptic gel. (I suspect I might lose one entirely.) Then I tied my sneakers to the back of my pack and put my Tevas on over my socks. This immediately alleviated the pain and I continued the last 3 miles.

Finally, I saw Estella in the distance. I had booked a bed at Hostería de Curtidores, which means “Hostel of the Tanners.” It was the first hostel in the town and is in a beautiful old building that used to be a tanner’s shop right on the river.

The place was immaculate and the owner greeted me by name. My room had one single bed (reserved for me) and a bunk bed (with two other women Pilgrims) and a private bath with a spacious shower. Pure bliss.

There was also a washer and dryer, so I threw my clothes in and headed into town for some supper. It felt good to walk without the pack on. Many places were closed (5pm is like no-man’s land in Spain) but I found a bar that had a decent menu. I realized I hadn’t really eaten all day, so I devoured the lamb chops, potatoes, pimentos and deep-fried cheese. Oh, and a beer.

Now I’m tucked into bed and trying to decide what to do tomorrow. The original plan was to walk to Los Arcos, but that is 13 miles and I’m not sure I’m ready for that, especially with my stupid toenails. So maybe a taxi or bus part way? Maybe send my pack on ahead? I may adjust my itinerary to reflect the reality that walking 13+ miles a day isn’t realistic for me; at least this early on my Camino. Poco a poco.

…but sunny this time!

For the first half of today’s walk I had a companion , an Italian woman who had stayed at the same Alburgue last night. Marianna and I walked together as far as Puente la Reina (Queen’s Bridge) a very pleasant, mostly flat walk. We passed through two small villages – Muruzábal and Óbanos. The path has gentle ups and downs and it was fun to see the villages rising in the distance. It was a pretty easy 4 miles.

When we reached Puente de la Reina, we bid each other “Buen Camino”. Marianna was making a short day and I was heading on to Cirauqui. I stopped at a local cafe for lunch (which included French fries) and then headed on.

I crossed the iconic bridge and continued along what was still a mostly flat dirt path. This apparently was one of the most beautiful stages of Navarra in the past, but in 2005, was unfortunately altered by the construction of the A-12 motorway, whose layout was designed completely ignoring the ancient route.

But I knew what was coming. The mile before the village of Mañeru is basically straight uphill. With no turns or flat areas to give you a break. Combined with yesterday’s hills, I was pretty pooped. (No snow this time, though, so when I needed to stop and rest, it was not so bad. And I needed to stop and rest quite a bit.)

But such a lovely hostel! Brand new and just opened. I met up with Astrid and Christopher, who are from Germany had also been at the hostel in Urtega (they left after I did and arrived much sooner…but then, I’m a Tortoise to the core!) The place has a nice beer selection and in a bit, we’ll have the “Pilgrims Meal” which includes wine, of course.

Tomorrow is supposed to be another sunny day, with temperatures in the mid-40s. Perfect weather for walking. And while there are some ups and downs, it doesn’t look like there are any long, steep climbs. About 9 miles to Estrella. Then, I’ll see if I’m ready for a 13 mile day!

…begins with a single step. I took my first “official” step on the Camino at approximately 9:15am. As is often the case when there is a momentous event happening the next day, I got very little sleep the night before. A combination of jet lag and anticipation kept me tossing and turning until the wee hours.

I got up at 8:30, had my coffee, dressed in my layers and headed out. A not unsubstantial amount of snow had fallen and big flakes were still coming down from the sky as I found the path and started heading out of the city. Slowly.

The path was slippery and slushy and I was glad I had my poles. The signage was a bit confusing and I was standing by a building, looking at the map when a woman walked by, said “Camino?” and proceeded to lead me across several streets and turns until there was a big yellow arrow and the Camino “shell” evident. “Buen Camino,” she said, as she waved me on.

The first town was Cizur Menor, where I planned to get a decent breakfast. Once out of the city, the path became more rural, but was still passable and flat. The snow continued to fall and several groups of Pilgrims passed me on the way. I made it to Cizur Menor in good time (for me) and found the only open cafe. Eggs, bacon, fresh squeezed orange juice and the ubiquitous French fries. On to the next phase and the tiny town of Zariquiegui.

Now the path changed. It was more like a trail. Muddy, slushy and in many places, it resembled a tiny stream. I did the best I could, waking along the sides but my shoes and socks were soon soaked. The entire trek was a slow, steady slog up a relentless (and slippery) hill. I was beginning to be quite winded and was happy to find a bench about a mile before the town.

Two other pilgrims sat down as well, one a man who had obviously walked the Road before. “You’re going to Uterga? Don’t worry! The next little town is less than a mile! You can get food and something to drink there. Then…there’s a big incline up to the famous statues where you’ll want to take a selfie! And then… a very steep descent into Uterga. Just be careful and go slow.”

Okay, I thought. I can do this. I’ll get to Zariquiegui, get warm, eat and drink something, change my socks, have a rest and then be ready for the last bit.

I huffed and puffed my way into Zariquiegui, only to find everything closed. The cafe had obviously been a victim of the pandemic and the Alburgue was locked up tight. There was one little shop that closed at 2:00pm – and it was 2:05.

I was wet, cold, exhausted, my legs were cramping and I had to go to the bathroom. Everything I was wearing was damp. The snow was still coming down. I sat down on a ledge outside the shop and lo and behold, the owner came out! I asked her if she could call me a taxi…and she did. Buen Camino, indeed!

The taxi charged me about twice what she probably should have but I didn’t care. I got to the hostel in Uterga, got my stamp, took a hot shower and hung all my clothes around the bunk. The stuff inside my pack stayed nice and dry, thanks to my poncho and pack cover. Pilgrims meal is at 7:00pm and I’m sure there will be wine. And French fries.

Never did get to take the selfie on top of the hill but discretion is the better part of valor, they say. (And at the hostel, I met a couple who took a taxi all the way from Pamplona due to the weather! So, apparently, I did well.)

Tomorrow and the next day I’m only planning to walk about 14km (8.5 miles) which is what I ended up walking today. Cirauqui and then Estella. And the weather is supposed to get better. Sunny (but cold) tomorrow and in the 50s on Monday. Hopefully by then my legs will have developed some stamina and the road will be easier!

After a full night and day of travel (and almost no sleep) I was in bed by 9:00pm. I woke up having no idea of the time and was a little shocked to discover that it was 10:00am! (But the sun doesn’t even rise here until 8:00am so I didn’t feel that bad.)

I looked out the window to see wet pavement and, as predicted, big flakes of snow coming down. A good chance to try out all my layers and poncho. The hostel has a lovely coffee machine so I availed myself of two “cafe solo largo” – a typical Spanish espresso with sugar.

Thus fortified, I bundled up and went to find the “Caminoteca” – a local store with just about everything a peregrina could want or need. I got a pair of decent walking poles and a lightweight, string backpack. And of course, the requisite scallop shell. Met some other pilgrims, some who had started in St. Jean. Then I meandered around a bit and found a little cafe right near my hostel serving a fixed price meal…choice of starter, main, dessert, bread and wine. For €12. (That’s about $13.25.) I had a salad, eggs with “papas rostas” (ie: French fries) and some kind of incredible sausage. For dessert, I had some kind of cream thing with cinnamon and nutmeg. No picture because I ate it too fast!

The sun was trying to peek through so I walked a bit more…checking out the architecture and numerous references to Hemingway. Apparently he got drunk in more than a few places here. And of course, Pamplona was the setting for “The Sun Also Rises.”

I visited several of the bars, including the famous “Cafe Iruna.” Alas, the “Cerveceria” where Hemingway apparently got falling-down drunk and walked out into the Plaza in nothing but his underpants has closed. But I had several glasses of “vino tinto” (red wine) in his honor.

After an early (for Spain, anyway) meal, I headed back to the hostel and bed. My plan is to take my first real step on the Camino by 9:00am tomorrow!

Or at least in Pamplona. The traditional “beginning” is St-Jean-Pied-de-Port but I didn’t feel up to schlepping over the Pyrenees and that route is closed now anyway due to snow.

They say your Camino starts when you walk out your door…so I guess I started when I left Worcester Wednesday afternoon to walk to the train station. Two hours to Logan. Two hours IN Logan. 6 hours on the plane. 2 hours to get through customs and another 4 hours waiting in the Madrid airport. 6 hour bus ride to Pamplona.

(The wait at the airport was sort of a debacle. Rather than making my way to the train station to take an earlier train, I thought I was being clever by finding an “arrivals lounge” and booking a few hours. Well, turns out the so-called lounge was basically a few tables and chairs with bad sandwiches. Plus, they couldn’t find my booking. They let me in “as a favor.”)

Anyway…finally…here I sit in a local restaurant having wine, bread, risotto and flan. My hostel is right around the corner and I’m planning on a long sleep before doing a bit of exploring tomorrow.

And I got my very first stamp in my Credential!