After 4 days, it was time to leave my little nest in Valtuille.

I was originally going to try to take a train to Sarria and continue from there, but train times and schedules have been cut back since the pandemic. Susan and Rocío suggested that they drive me to Treacastela, a town about 12 miles before Sarria. They also insisted on taking a detour to Ó Cerbreio, a town at the very top of a mountain. It would have been quite a climb! I was happy not to have to make the ascent but very glad to see the town.

O Cebreiro has grown from a small and ancient village of dairy farmers into a small and ancient village of large scale tourism. 😁

Even in the fog, the views were stunning.

The parish church is the setting for a miracle. According to legend, The Holy Grail was hidden there and in the 14th century produced a miracle that was certified by Pope Innocent VIII. A peasant from a local village braved the hike up to O Cebreiro during a dangerous snowstorm to hear mass. The priest chastised him for endangering his life for a bit of bread and wine. At that the bread and wine turned into flesh and blood, cementing the reputation of this small hamlet.

We carried on to Treacastela. For the next few days, I’m planning to stay in private rooms and walk only 6 – 8 miles per day. My pensión is right on the Camino and has a restaurant attached. And my room has a balcony! (Rocío approved – she had already informed me that if it didn’t look right, they were taking me back!)

My latest COVID test was decidedly negative. Tomorrow I will (slowly) head toward Pintin, where I have a reservation at another pensión. And the weather is supposed to improve.