After a delicious dinner (pasta with homemade sauce! Ice cream for dessert!) and a breakfast of egg omelette and juice, I started out for Castiledelgado. It was 11 miles but not too hilly and for some stupid reason, I thought I could just carry my pack. Even though another pilgrim going to the same albergue was having hers transported and it would have been a simple matter to add mine.
The morning was brisk and a bit cloudy, but I felt pretty good as I started out.


The walking was pretty smooth on a dirt road and in a couple of hours, I could see Santo Domingo de la Calzada up ahead.

I passed this sculpture on the way into the town. The sign said that it “Represents the figure of Santo Dominic inside the pillar of a bridge. In the 11th century St. Dominic built a bridge over the river Oja so pilgrims could cross it more easily.”

I passed through a plaza with a pilgrim-themed sculpture/water spigot and a cathedral.


I came across a little cafe and went into to get a second breakfast. There were Katrina and Amy from last night’s albergue! We chatted a bit and discussed plans for finding accommodation for the coming week. Holy Week is a Very Big Deal here and many places were filling up fast.
After food and a brief phone charge, I carried on. The road was not too steep but the surface had changed from dirt to rough gravel and my feet were feeling it. After one particularly gnarly stretch, I was glad to find a resting place.

I took off my socks to see how my toes were doing. They were not happy. I was glad to see the next town, Grañon, in the distance.

Like a mirage in the desert, the towns always appear closer than they actually were. And the path stayed stony. But I finally made my way into the town.


I found an open pharmacy and finally got a pair of proper, heavy-duty toenail clippers. I did some maintenance (no, still no toenail pictures) and switched into my sandals. But my feet were killing me. If I’d only had my light day pack, I would’ve been up for continuing the last 3 miles. But alas…my toes and feet were taking umbrage at the extra weight. I decided to call it a day and call a taxi.
This meant I had time to explore the old church in the square.





I spoke to a woman I had seen on the Way who was actually staying at the church – they have an albergue “donativo” which consists of mattresses on the floor, a hot meal, and is paid by donations. (She was from Australia and had RUN 20Ks of the Camino before picking up her pack and hiking another 10K. I was just…🤪)
I finally got to my beautiful albergue in Castiledelgado. Owned by an older couple, it’s in a beautifully restored antique house.






Hot shower, cup of cafè con leche and the promise of a delicious home-cooked meal (with wine) tonight. All is right with the Camino.

I’ll be honest, if you sent your pack ahead of you, and weren’t up for the walk to the town beyond… you’d be without a pack! I’m glad you cut it short and had all your things with you.
The town is beautiful and the signs are so welcoming. i love the sculptures!