The train ride to Kemble was quick and uneventful. Kemble is a little village in Cirencester with not much in it but the train station, the Thames Head Inn and the famed “source” of the Thames.

I had been warned to take a cab the mile or so to the Inn, since the road from the station had no shoulder and was difficult to walk safely. There was a sign posted at the station with several taxi companies listed. I called the first one and asked for a taxi to the Inn. There was a pause and then, “We don’t have any taxis. How’d you get this number?”

A little taken aback, I said that it was posted at the station. The gruff voice advised me to try the second number. So I did. After about 5 or 6 rings someone picked up and I asked (again) for a taxi to the Inn. There was a long pause. Then he said the it would be at least 20 minutes and there was a flat fee of £15. It would be a black car, he said. Not knowing an alternative, I agreed.

Meanwhile, I checked Uber. Their fee was £6 but there were no cars nearby. Then a black car drove up with a passenger. Thinking I was in luck, I moved toward it. The woman driving said she wasn’t a cab, but she’d be happy to take me to the Inn, since the taxis around here were “dreadful.” I agreed and in short order, was at the very quaint “Thames Head Inn.”

My room wasn’t ready yet so I had a pint and a “jacket potato” with Brie and bacon. Yes, it was huge. And delicious.

After lunch I was shown to my room around the back. A very comfortable space with a deep soaking tub that I determined to take advantage of that evening!

Then it was time to find “The Source.” I took a path through the fields in back where it wound around across the train tracks and met up with the actual Thames Path.

There were many wildflowers and open fields and the sun was even peeking out. I was glad for my sunglasses and hat!

Finally I came to the actual Path! I could see in the distance a large stone and I assumed I had reached the Source! The small pile of stones in front was dry, but that must be where the underground spring started.

The writing on the stone said “The Conservators of the River Thames. 1857-1974. This stone was placed here to mark the source of the River Thames.”

So my journey has officially begun! I walked down to where the Thames Path intersects the main road and then back to the Inn. The proprietor has graciously agreed to give me a ride back to that spot (so I’m not walking on the stupidly dangerous road) And I’m looking forward to following the Thames to Oxford.