I am really enjoying my slower, lower-mileage days. I find that 4 – 5 hours of walking is plenty, and even though I suppose that I could take a long lunch break at 1:00pm or so and then walk on for a few more hours, I find it more pleasant (and easier on my feet!) not to! I’m in no rush.

I left my lovely albergue at about 8:30am and moseyed the couple of miles on into Portomarin. It was a steep downhill until suddenly it wasn’t.

Portomarin holds the distinction of being the newest oldest town on the Camino. The town was constructed and built next to a Roman bridge over the Minho River and rebuilt in the Middle Ages.

In the 1960s the Miño River was dammed to create the Belesar reservoir, putting the old village of Portomarín under water. The most historic buildings of the town were moved brick by brick and reconstructed in the new town, including its castle-style main church.

I was a bit concerned about the way after Portomarin, as the whole thing looked to be uphill. It was, but it wasn’t steep and there were places where it flattened out for a bit. And it was mostly through a lovely forest. I thought these apple trees were especially lovely.

I had some lunch in Gonzar at an actual restaurant serving real food. Yes, even at the unheard of time of noon! I had a bowl of what they called “Galician broth” which turned out to be a soup with potatoes, kale and white beans and was absolutely delicious.

Less than a mile later, I arrived at my little pensión. A tiny, immaculately clean private room with real sheets and a purple duvet. Bar down the road with beer and serving a tolerable dinner. And a couple of paperbacks in English. (If I ever do this again, I’m bringing my Kindle!)

Tomorrow the temperatures are supposed to be in the 70s and I’ll be heading to Palas de Rey…about 15 km. Slow and steady!