Riding the Jacobite Steam Train to Mallaig

This is considered one of the most famous steam train rides in the world and was used in the Harry Potter movies. I had been determined to ride it ever since I knew I’d be in Fort William, but tickets on line had been sold out for months. However. Rumor had it that you could often get tickets on the day, provided you were willing to stand in line and had cash in hand. So, that was my plan.

The morning train left at 10:15am. I got up early, and with the requisite cash in my pocket, walked down to the train station. In the pouring rain. I own a wonderful, versatile, very excellent waterproof poncho. It was sitting on my bed in Massachusetts. So, I had purchased a cheap, flimsy, thin plastic thing to cover me. It was…less than adequate. But I got there.

There were about a dozen other hopefuls already standing in line for a same-day ticket. Word was that the day before, only seven had been available. I disengaged myself from my wet plastic bag poncho-thing, got myself a coffee, and waited. My shoes and the bottoms of my pants were soaked, but my core was dry and it wasn’t cold. Despite the rain, everyone was in good spirits and we were all sure we’d get a ticket.

And we were successful! I was assigned a seat at a table with three American girls who were on a “girls trip” driving around Scotland. They had been in line, too. Soon the engine started up and we were chugging along. Lo and behold, the sun came out and the scenery was spectacular!

Everyone was waiting for the view over the viaduct. The viaduct has 21 arches and people drive for miles to watch the train cross. As we approached, we could see crowds of people standing everywhere, waiting to get a good shot. It was amazing.

Obviously, I could not get a shot from below, but this is what it looks like. An iconic view!

We made a brief stop at Glenfinnan, which had a little cafe, a tiny museum and some cool views. We also passed through Arisaig, which is the furthest west train stop in the UK. You could see the Atlantic Ocean.

Finally we were pulling into the little fishing port of Mallaig. I was hungry, so I found a little restaurant and had a bowl of Cullen skink (a kind of fish stew) and a half pint of a local ale.

The sun had continued to cooperate, so I walked around the village.

There was a fabulous bakery right on the water and I had a pastry and a sinfully rich hot chocolate.

Soon it was time to reboard the train. More views. More train.

Back in Fort William, I took myself to a warm pub and then an excellent fish restaurant that was highly recommended. A second fabulous meal!

Walking back to my inn, I explored an old cemetery that I’d noticed previously. Some cool old headstones and monuments.

An early start the next day, a brief stop-over in Glasgow and now I am on my way to Halifax to meet up with some friends and celebrate.

This train don’t carry no liars, this train
This train don’t carry no liars, this train
This train don’t carry no liars,
no hypocrites and no high flyers
This train is bound for glory, this train