England swings like a pendulum do…

A summer trip across the pond.

Because I lived in London for 4 years, I am not really a tourist when I make my way over to Old Blighty. I am very familiar with the city, the public transport (the “Tube”) and the various neighborhoods. And like any big city, London has its quirky nooks and crannies and there is always something new to explore.

This time, my trip is centered around a friend’s 40th birthday bash, to be held in his hometown of Halifax. I decided to spend about 10 days beforehand hanging out in London and then gallivanting up to Fort William in a Scotland via the Caledonian Sleeper train.

I stayed up near the British Library, near King’s Cross and Euston. Very convenient for…well, almost everything. Once again, I stayed in student accommodation, which is spartan, but perfectly adequate and much less expensive than a normal hotel. This time, I got myself a room with an attached bath. And the building had an elevator yay! It was called the John Dodgson House and is part of the University of the City of London.

London was having a genuine heat wave, and of course these student rooms have no air conditioning (most of London doesn’t) or fans. And the window had one of the those stupid locks that kept it from opening too far. But…there was a slight breeze that came through. 🙄

I spent four days in London, only it was really three days cause my jet lag was beastly this time! But once I emerged, I did some exploring of a few places I’d never been. First was the Foundling Museum, which was very moving and sobering. I did not realize that George Frederick Handel had a great deal of involvement in the Foundling Home. There was an exhibit of his music as part of the museum.

In addition to several original scores and programs, there were these cool chairs with speakers where you could sit and listen to Handel’s music.

Many mothers left their children at the Home because they had no choice. Often they would leave a token with the baby, to identify their child if their circumstances improved and they wanted to claim them. However, most children never saw their mother again.

I was pleasantly surprised to find that a free concert was scheduled during my visit. This was a young clarinetist who played some modern pieces, as well as a Debussy that was incredibly complex. It was a real treat to hear him.

Another day, I headed into the British Museum. I intended to spend several hours there, but the place was absolutely packed with tourists and camp groups…plus it was stupidly hot and stuffy. However, the Japan exhibit was quite interesting.

The coolest place I visited by far were the underground “War Rooms” used by Churchill and his staff during WWII. Several hundred men and women, both military and civilian, worked, lived (and often slept) in this space. The Cabinet War Rooms provided the secret underground headquarters for the core of the British government throughout the Second World War.

The fear that London would be the target of aerial bombardment had troubled the government since the First World War and in 1938 the basement of a Whitehall building was chosen as the site for the Cabinet War Rooms. From 1940 – 1945 hundreds of men and women would spend thousands of vital hours here and it soon became the inner sanctum of the British government.

It was fascinating.

The multi-colored phones lit up rather than ringing.

London has a vibrant theater scene and I had pre-booked several shows. I saw a fantastic production of “Richard III” at Shakespeare’s Globe…an all-female cast with many sly Trump references. (NOTE: The story does not end well for Richard. 😆 ) I saw an amazing musical called “Standing at the Sky’s Edge” with music by singer-songwriter Richard Hawley. Really unusual, creative staging and gorgeous singing.

I also saw a production of “Grapes of Wrath” at the National Theater, which is usually top-notch but…wasn’t. Very disappointing production; more like a community theater effort with very earnest actors. Scenery was non-existent and the set was not utilized well. The show committed the cardinal sin of being boring. I left at intermission. 🤣

My friend Philippa came with me to the first two.

Of course, just walking around London you see all sorts of things. I mean, history is oozing out of every pore, despite the modern buildings.

This morning, I dragged myself out of bed early enough to check out of my room and get down to Westminster Abbey for their sung Eucharist. Such a beautiful setting and the choir and organ were terrific, as usual.

After the service I walked over to Trafalgar Square and was lucky enough to see one of the “King’s Horse Guards” emerging from the livery.

I finished up the day with a traditional pub lunch of a pint and a steak-and-ale pie and a beautiful a cappella concert at St Martin in the Fields. A 6-voice ensemble. The songs were all based on the idea of heavenly wings. Madrigals, hymns and “Blackbird” by Lennon/McCartney. Just lovely.