…and the steps of St. Paul’s.

After returning from the festivities in Halifax, I had planned a day in London and then a day in Paris. I’ve always thought it was a cool thing to take the Eurostar to Paris for the day. However. I did not plan on a heat wave (it was 100°F in Paris on the Monday) and I had totally forgotten about the Paris Olympics.

I actually toyed with the idea of scratching the Paris excursion and visiting the White Cliffs of Dover. But…the tickets were non-refundable and I decided to stick with my original plan.

My hotel in London was again near Kings Cross but it was a proper hotel this time, rather than student accommodation. Still no air conditioning but a huge window that let the breezes in and a little “Juliette” balcony. Tiny room, but comfortable bed, plenty of outlets, a tea kettle and a private bath. The bathroom had an integrated shower, like on a boat or a train.

Monday I had a lazy morning. The hotel offered a basic breakfast (with no real coffee, alas) so I took advantage of that and sat out in their back garden for a while. Finally I roused myself and took a bus down to Blackfriar’s Bridge, near St. Paul’s Cathedral. I was pretty hungry by then and in the mood for pub food. I found this very cool historic pub, right in the middle of everything. Excellent food, good real ale and fascinating history! (There is also a ghost, apparently!)

The Blackfriar
This art-nouveau masterpiece was built in 1905 on the site of a former Dominican Friary which existed from 1279 – 1539. Following the 260 years of the Dominican Friars the site became the parliament chamber of the monastry. It is believed that Emperor Charles V, the Papal Magistrate and Henry VIII’s court sat on this very site during the dissolution of Henry VIII’s marrage to Catherine of Aragon in 1532. The Black Friar has been a favourite watering hole for many since the ‘merry monks’ first settled on this site. Its unusual shape is due to the fact that all the surrounding buildings have long since been demolished, taking with them the small alleyways that were once the only access to the pub. This wonderful pub was due for demolition in the sixties but the public outcry led by Sir John Betjeman and Lady Dartmouth saved the building.

One thing I love walking around London is that you never know when you might come upon some little alleyway left over from hundreds of years ago. And these are not dark, dim and dirty alleys…these are actual footpaths that have been continually traveled. And like as not, have a pub or two along the way.

I got to the Cathedral in time for Evensong…and I even got to sit in the Quire. Such a beautiful building. Such beautiful music. No little old bird woman was sitting on the steps, but I did see the Saints and Apostles looking down.

After the service, I sat outside and treated myself to an Aperol Spritz before heading back to my hotel.

The next morning, I got up at 5:00am in order to get to the Eurostar on time. Once you’re checked in and through customs, there’s a cafe and free WiFi. The trains are very comfortable and also air conditioned, thank goodness.

I originally had a sort of plan…I was going to make my way down to the Louvre and spend a few house there, and then walk along the Seine, where hopefully there would be a breeze. However. I discovered that the Louvre was closed on Tuesdays! Also, due to the Olympics, the price was a single Metro ticket was doubled and many of the bus routes were diverted. Also…it was hot and humid. I revised my plan and decided to take an open top bus tour. I booked a ticket with “TOOT BUS” 🙄 and slowly walked down to the nearest stop, which was right by the Opera. On the way, I stopped at a cafe in Franz Liszt Square and had a proper breakfast.

Something interesting to me about the buildings in this part of Paris is that they all have triangular façades and they all have those little balcony windows.

The walk was longer than I had realized and when I finally found the bus stop, I was happy to be able to board and sit. There was a nice breeze on the top. I was given a map of the “Purple Route” which was supposedly the Olympics-modified route. However…the route we drove was NOT the route on the map. In fact, it seemed pretty random and haphazard. Many times, the pre-recorded description just stopped, because we weren’t anywhere near anything on the original tour. So I just took the headphones off and enjoyed the view.

When the tour finished, I hit up a local cafe for a latte and to charge my phone. I decided to do a tour of the Opera House, which was right up the street. This was a “self-guided” tour. Basically, you paid €15 and you could wander around inside. It was hot and crowded but the interior was quite stunning.

Now I wanted food…French food. I was hoping to find someplace that made cassoulet, but I had to settle for pâté and beef Bourguignon. Oh, and a glass of excellent red wine.

By this time, I was ready to get the hell out of Paris. Gare du Nord was hot and crowded (seems like all of Paris was hot and crowded) and I was happy to find my seat on the relatively cooler train and make the journey back to St. Pancras.

My flight back to Boston was uneventful and since my son was working in town that afternoon, I was treated to a ride home direct from the airport.

And now…I’m back in my little condo! Already thinking about my next adventure!

I love Paris in the spring time 
I love Paris in the fall 
I love Paris in the summer when it sizzles 
I love Paris in the winter when it drizzles 

Three days in Halifax

My friend Dean turned 40 this month and he decided to give himself a big party. Because he invited many of his fellow “Lord of the Rings” friends, and because we typically call our gatherings “moots,” we decided that this would be called a “DOOT” – because it was Dean’s MOOT. Yes, very silly.

Like most of our gatherings, it started in a pub. I got the train from Glasgow mid-morning and was treated to some lovely scenery as we chugged our way to Halifax. There was only one delay, when trains from Preston (where I transferred) to Halifax were all inexplicably cancelled. 😡 But I found an alternate route through Manchester and was only slightly annoyed.

I was happy to see my hotel, the Imperial Crown, directly across from the train station. I checked in, dumped my bags and made my way up the hill to the Grayston Unity Pub. I was immediately treated to a pint.

Lots of welcomes, hugs, catching up and more pints occurred. I had made Dean a special hat for his birthday…that’s the White Tree of Gondor for those of you who aren’t familiar. He was quite pleased with it.

We then repaired to a somewhat overly-trendy establishment called “NXT LVL.” Apparently they lost the letter “E” when making the sign. 🙄 However, they did do pretty decent burgers. They had some old-school video games which amused several of us for a while. There was a nice seating area outside, too.

We were actually able to get a group picture with everyone in it!

The next morning, we met for coffee and breakfast at a place called MAMIL, which stands for “Middle Aged Men in Lycra.” No, I am not kidding. It’s a cycling-themed cafe/bar and they have pretty decent food and coffee.

We moved on to hang out in the “Piece Hall” which original was a huge trading site for sellers of fabric. Much of the original structure is still there…you can see where all the individual shops/stalls were around the perimeter. The interior has been leveled and made smoother for walking. This weekend, there were several concerts scheduled for the evenings, so a large stage had been set up, along with food trucks and other kiosks. It was a great place to people-watch. The ornate cast-iron gates were fascinating, too.

Also cool was Borough Market. This is on the site of the original covered market in Halifax, which has been there for hundreds of years. The current structure was built in 1895. I loved looking at the ornate ceiling and the clock. Originally, it sold mostly meat and fish, but now you can get almost anything. Including yarn. 😁

The highlight of the afternoon was a tour of Halifax that Dean had arranged with his friends Signe and James. Signe was a terrific narrator and told us many tales of the various historical characters (famous and infamous) and the buildings in Halifax. We heard about the running man, who escaped the gibbet, the severed head of John the Baptist, the scandalous Anne Lister, who was known as “Gentleman Jack” and Union Cross Yard, the oldest pub, which has been in operation since 1535…plus many other interesting and intriguing buildings.

We ended up (where else) in a pub called “Dukes” which had a nice selection of real ales.

I headed back to my hotel for a bit of a nap before the nights festivities! Dean had rented a local hall and arranged for a buffet, a cash bar and plenty of music. There was even a costume box so folks could get into the spirit of things. A splendid time was guaranteed for all.

Sunday morning, I attended service at the Halifax Minster, a beautiful old church. There was no choir (they’re on holiday) but the organ was lovely and I liked the friendly vibe. There is nothing quite like hearing an Old Testament story read in a broad Yorkshire accent!

More Halifax…

All too soon, people were leaving! The “DOOT” had come to an end. I had one minor panic when I thought I’d lost my passport…but it was found! I made my way to the train station and headed back to London. And another heat wave.

… But ya’ got to have friends
The feeling’s oh so strong
Ya’ got to have friends
To make that day last long

Riding the Jacobite Steam Train to Mallaig

This is considered one of the most famous steam train rides in the world and was used in the Harry Potter movies. I had been determined to ride it ever since I knew I’d be in Fort William, but tickets on line had been sold out for months. However. Rumor had it that you could often get tickets on the day, provided you were willing to stand in line and had cash in hand. So, that was my plan.

The morning train left at 10:15am. I got up early, and with the requisite cash in my pocket, walked down to the train station. In the pouring rain. I own a wonderful, versatile, very excellent waterproof poncho. It was sitting on my bed in Massachusetts. So, I had purchased a cheap, flimsy, thin plastic thing to cover me. It was…less than adequate. But I got there.

There were about a dozen other hopefuls already standing in line for a same-day ticket. Word was that the day before, only seven had been available. I disengaged myself from my wet plastic bag poncho-thing, got myself a coffee, and waited. My shoes and the bottoms of my pants were soaked, but my core was dry and it wasn’t cold. Despite the rain, everyone was in good spirits and we were all sure we’d get a ticket.

And we were successful! I was assigned a seat at a table with three American girls who were on a “girls trip” driving around Scotland. They had been in line, too. Soon the engine started up and we were chugging along. Lo and behold, the sun came out and the scenery was spectacular!

Everyone was waiting for the view over the viaduct. The viaduct has 21 arches and people drive for miles to watch the train cross. As we approached, we could see crowds of people standing everywhere, waiting to get a good shot. It was amazing.

Obviously, I could not get a shot from below, but this is what it looks like. An iconic view!

We made a brief stop at Glenfinnan, which had a little cafe, a tiny museum and some cool views. We also passed through Arisaig, which is the furthest west train stop in the UK. You could see the Atlantic Ocean.

Finally we were pulling into the little fishing port of Mallaig. I was hungry, so I found a little restaurant and had a bowl of Cullen skink (a kind of fish stew) and a half pint of a local ale.

The sun had continued to cooperate, so I walked around the village.

There was a fabulous bakery right on the water and I had a pastry and a sinfully rich hot chocolate.

Soon it was time to reboard the train. More views. More train.

Back in Fort William, I took myself to a warm pub and then an excellent fish restaurant that was highly recommended. A second fabulous meal!

Walking back to my inn, I explored an old cemetery that I’d noticed previously. Some cool old headstones and monuments.

An early start the next day, a brief stop-over in Glasgow and now I am on my way to Halifax to meet up with some friends and celebrate.

This train don’t carry no liars, this train
This train don’t carry no liars, this train
This train don’t carry no liars,
no hypocrites and no high flyers
This train is bound for glory, this train

3 days in Fort William.

Fort William might be the rainiest town in the UK, but the sun actually came out for me and allowed me to ramble hither and yon. After a brief nap at my little inn, I moseyed on down to the “town center” to have a look around.

Although it was a bit drizzly, plenty of people were out and about. There was a full-size bronze replica of a Model T Ford. Apparently, in 1911, some valiant chap had driven a Model T all the way up Ben Nevis, the highest peak in the UK! I sat next to him and got a picture.

Then I stopped in at the “Highland Museum,” which was small but packed full of interesting historical artifacts about the area, including the Jacobite uprising, Queen Victoria, and other bits and bobs.

There was a break in the mist, so I walked along the river for a while. I saw the ruins of the old fort. Not much of it is left, because the Railroad Company bought the site and ran their trains right through it! However, you can still see the shape of it and get an idea of how it might have looked.

It was high time for a pint and some grub. I stopped into a pub and had an ale and some fantastic seafood chowder before heading back up the hill.

The next day promised to be sunny. Well, sunny-ish! I decided to make the most of it with a walk along the “Great Glen Way” and a visit to the old castle and a local distillery. So many beautiful flowers and plants along the river. It was a lovely walk.

There were sheep! They baa-ed at me as I walked by.

Soon I reached the ruins of Inverlochy Castle. They are currently doing some structural work, so it wasn’t possible to walk through it. But you could still get up close enough to see its magnificence. It was built in the mid-1200s and is still in remarkable shape. Very “Lord of the Rings.”

Down the path a little ways was a soap factory and cafe. So many lovely soaps…and they had a sink where you could try them out. I resisted purchasing anything, but I did have a latte and a delicious avocado toast with sun-dried tomatoes and smoked salmon.

Then it was time for whisky! When I got to the distillery, I was told that all tours were completely booked. But…it seemed that several folks had not shown up for the tour that was just starting out. So they squeezed me in. It was very interesting. And I got to try four different types of whisky, all made on site with the incomparable water from Ben Nevis. All very, very nice!

The clouds had parted enough so we could actually see Ben Nevis…an unusual occurrence!

The night before, I had ended up with rather mediocre Indian food for a late supper (this was after the most excellent soup…) so I decided to get a decent meal. By now, it had begun to drizzle, so after I dodged the raindrops back to my guesthouse, I booked myself a table at a fine restaurant just down the street. I was not disappointed!

My heart’s in the Highlands, my heart is not here, 
My heart’s in the Highlands, a-chasing the deer; 
Chasing the wild-deer, and following the roe, 
My heart’s in the Highlands, wherever I go.

Up to Fort William on the Caledonian Sleeper.

I had taken the sleeper once before, up to Inverness. This time, I opted for Fort William, considered (so I’ve now been told) to be the rainiest town in the UK. But also beautiful.

The sleeper train has undergone some major improvements since the the last time. For one thing, they now have a dedicated lounge at Euston, with snacks, drinks, food for purchase and hot showers.

The lounge was small, but spotlessly clean, comfortable and friendly. After traipsing around London all day, I was very happy to have the option of a hot shower before boarding the train. The attendant gave me a huge fluffy towel and there was soap, shampoo and body lotion provided. And they had an accessible shower with extra room and safety bars for balance-challenged individuals like me. I took my time!

After I was presentably clean and in my traveling clothes, I had a glass of wine and ordered a ham and cheese toastie and a bowl of soup. I also swiped some complementary cookies for the journey. Then they called my train car and I boarded. I had upgraded myself to a “club” room which had an attached bathroom. The room was tiny, but had a surprisingly large sink, and all toiletries and etc were provided.

There were also two bars of excellent Scottish chocolate on the beds. Since I was the only occupant, I took both of them! (Yes, it was milk chocolate…but it was really good!)

“Club” tickets meant you got admission to the on-board “club car” and I took myself up there and had a lovely glass of Scotch whisky, while I watched the scenery until it got too dark.

I returned to my cabin and settled in for the night. The train had WiFi, so I caught up with the news and my email and then fell asleep to the rhythm of the train. I woke up around 3:00am, when they were switching engines and splitting the train. The next time I woke up, it was 8:00am! I had overslept my breakfast time! Luckily, they still served me!

Soon the train was pulling into Fort William. As predicted, it was raining. I had originally planned to walk to my little guesthouse, but I wasn’t sure of the way and had forgotten my rain poncho. 🙄 So I grabbed a taxi.

The “Distillery Guest House” turned out to be less than half a mile from the train station. And even though I was three hours early for check-in, my room was ready and I could get myself settled.

I had booked their one “single” – a tiny, but cozy room on the first floor. There was a modern bathroom, plenty of outlets for charging devices, a reading light and a mini coffee/tea bar with a kettle.

I decided to have a cup of tea, a brief nap, and then go explore. And buy a rain poncho!

Let me tell you that I love you and I think about you all the time
Caledonia you’re callin’ me and now I’m going home
And if I should become a stranger
You know that it would make me more than sad
Caledonia you’re everything I’ve ever had

A summer trip across the pond.

Because I lived in London for 4 years, I am not really a tourist when I make my way over to Old Blighty. I am very familiar with the city, the public transport (the “Tube”) and the various neighborhoods. And like any big city, London has its quirky nooks and crannies and there is always something new to explore.

This time, my trip is centered around a friend’s 40th birthday bash, to be held in his hometown of Halifax. I decided to spend about 10 days beforehand hanging out in London and then gallivanting up to Fort William in a Scotland via the Caledonian Sleeper train.

I stayed up near the British Library, near King’s Cross and Euston. Very convenient for…well, almost everything. Once again, I stayed in student accommodation, which is spartan, but perfectly adequate and much less expensive than a normal hotel. This time, I got myself a room with an attached bath. And the building had an elevator yay! It was called the John Dodgson House and is part of the University of the City of London.

London was having a genuine heat wave, and of course these student rooms have no air conditioning (most of London doesn’t) or fans. And the window had one of the those stupid locks that kept it from opening too far. But…there was a slight breeze that came through. 🙄

I spent four days in London, only it was really three days cause my jet lag was beastly this time! But once I emerged, I did some exploring of a few places I’d never been. First was the Foundling Museum, which was very moving and sobering. I did not realize that George Frederick Handel had a great deal of involvement in the Foundling Home. There was an exhibit of his music as part of the museum.

Many mothers left their children at the Home because they had no choice. Often they would leave a token with the baby, to identify their child if their circumstances improved and they wanted to claim them. However, most children never saw their mother again.

I was pleasantly surprised to find that a free concert was scheduled during my visit. This was a young clarinetist who played some modern pieces, as well as a Debussy that was incredibly complex. It was a real treat to hear him.

Another day, I headed into the British Museum. I intended to spend several hours there, but the place was absolutely packed with tourists and camp groups…plus it was stupidly hot and stuffy. However, the Japan exhibit was quite interesting.

The coolest place I visited by far were the underground “War Rooms” used by Churchill and his staff during WWII. Several hundred men and women, both military and civilian, worked, lived (and often slept) in this space. The Cabinet War Rooms provided the secret underground headquarters for the core of the British government throughout the Second World War.

The fear that London would be the target of aerial bombardment had troubled the government since the First World War and in 1938 the basement of a Whitehall building was chosen as the site for the Cabinet War Rooms. From 1940 – 1945 hundreds of men and women would spend thousands of vital hours here and it soon became the inner sanctum of the British government.

It was fascinating.

London has a vibrant theater scene and I had pre-booked several shows. I saw a fantastic production of “Richard III” at Shakespeare’s Globe…an all-female cast with many sly Trump references. (NOTE: The story does not end well for Richard. 😆 ) I saw an amazing musical called “Standing at the Sky’s Edge” with music by singer-songwriter Richard Hawley. Really unusual, creative staging and gorgeous singing.

I also saw a production of “Grapes of Wrath” at the National Theater, which is usually top-notch but…wasn’t. Very disappointing production; more like a community theater effort with very earnest actors. Scenery was non-existent and the set was not utilized well. The show committed the cardinal sin of being boring. I left at intermission. 🤣

Of course, just walking around London you see all sorts of things. I mean, history is oozing out of every pore, despite the modern buildings.

This morning, I dragged myself out of bed early enough to check out of my room and get down to Westminster Abbey for their sung Eucharist. Such a beautiful setting and the choir and organ were terrific, as usual.

After the service I walked over to Trafalgar Square and was lucky enough to see one of the “King’s Horse Guards” emerging from the livery.

I finished up the day with a traditional pub lunch of a pint and a steak-and-ale pie and a beautiful a cappella concert at St Martin in the Fields. A 6-voice ensemble. The songs were all based on the idea of heavenly wings. Madrigals, hymns and “Blackbird” by Lennon/McCartney. Just lovely.

And now, I’m in my little room on the Caledonian Sleeper. On my way to Fort William!

England swings like a pendulum do
Bobbies on bicycles, two by two
Westminster Abbey, the tower of Big Ben
The rosy-red cheeks of the little children