After a short flight to Cusco, I was met by a smiling taxi driver, who ran up (slightly late) holding a sign with my name on it. There was a lot of congestion and construction getting out of the airport but then the scenery changed and started to appear more “historical.” It reminded me of some of the larger cities in Spain. The views of the mountains were spectacular and my driver pointed out sites of interest along the way.

I also was somewhat amused to realize how long it had been since I’d seen one of these handles to open and close the window! Worked fine.

We drove into the “historical district” and the streets became more and more narrow. Finally, we stopped at the entrance to my hotel, where several people came out to open my car door, take my luggage and welcome me to the “Hotel Hacienda.” A welcome change from my Lima digs!

There was complimentary coca leaf tea available, said to help with altitude sickness.

I was exhausted from too little sleep over the past two nights, but also ravenous. After I checked in, I took a little walk around the block and found an open restaurant that looked intriguing. I ordered what they called “minestrone soup” (but was more like the soup I had in Galacia) and a plate with chicken, rice, potatoes and salad. Everything was obviously freshly made and the chicken came with a homemade mole sauce. I devoured it. Interestingly, when I asked for water, I was given a glass of warm coca leaf tea!

The price for this feast? 8 soles…a little more than $2. 😳 When I went to pay, I discovered that they only took cash, much to my embarrassment, as I hadn’t yet had a chance to change money into cash. I promised to return and they were very understanding. Thus nourished, I headed back to my hotel and had a much-needed nap.

Then it was time to explore! I walked towards the main square…Plaza de Armas. This was the religious and administrative center of the Inca Empire, as well as being the main axis of the Inca road. In the center of the square, there is a large statue of Pachacuti, the ninth ruler of the Kingdom of Cusco and later the Emperor of the Inca Empire. 

The square was bustling with tourists, locals, street vendors, musicians, school children and families. I was approached many times and asked to buy…something. Trinkets, hats, toys, food, magnets, tiny llama key chains, sunglasses, shawls and scarves and offers of a “free massage.” Most vendors were polite and a simple “no thanks” would suffice. However, one sunglasses seller was very insistent and kept asking “¿Porque no?” as he brandished the sunglasses inches from my head. Finally I said “’¡Ya tengo!” as I pointed to the sunglasses on my face. Still not discouraged, he switched to asking “Well, a free massage, maybe?” as I walked away.

I loved looking at all the intricate carvings of the doors and windows in the buildings. I visited inside the “Iglesia de Compania de Jesús” which had a magnificent main altar…carved cedar wood with gold leaf and cherubs and angels poking out of every column. No pictures were allowed inside the church, but I found one on the internet. I sat and looked at it for quite a while; it really was amazing.

When I came out, there was a live band playing and dancing in the square. All the school children were dancing and pulling people into the circle to join in!

I decided it was time for a beer and maybe some food. I found a restaurant with a balcony right on the square. The view was tremendous. I had a couple of bottle of a local brew. They had Guinea pig (cuy) on the menu and I was going to try it, but alas, they were out of it. I had the alpaca instead! Tasted sort of like a rich pork. It was served with a kind of gnocchi and beautifully plated,

I had managed to get some cash from an ATM (with a stupidly high fee 🙄) and I headed back up the hill towards my hotel. The altitude was definitely affecting me and I went very slowly and stopped every couple hundred yards. I stopped by the restaurant and paid them and then got back to my hotel. They have a lovely bar and I capped off the evening with a “Pisco sour” – a fancy (and strong) drink popular here.

Bed felt good and I finally had a full nights sleep. This morning, I head out on a tour of the ancient ruins!