I got a ride to the intersection of the Path with the road and surveyed the way. The beginning was basically a small mowed section though a field. It was marked at the beginning and enough people had tramped down the grass to make it obvious. So off I went!

There were more wildflowers and the weather, again, was cloudy and a bit humid. But no rain and a nice breeze.

The river was still underground, although I saw several places where it might have been flowing in wetter conditions. I sat on a bench commentating the Queen.

Finally, just as the path started into a more wooded area, I saw some flowing water in the green river bed. The Thames had appeared!

Now the walk continued through somewhat muddy conditions and bumpy fields. It really was more of a slog than a pleasant stroll. I was happy that the way was pretty much flat and that I’d planned a journey of only about 7 miles.

I walked through and around various farms, with the requisite livestock. None of them paid me any mind, except one sheep, who stared at me curiously.

Unlike the Camino, this walk did not pass through various tiny hamlets and there were no convenient food stands on the way. I had not brought any extra snacks and was regretting it. I caught up with a woman about my age who had passed me several times and was taking a break near a pond. Her name was Ester and she was from Holland…also walking to Oxford. She was kind enough to give me an energy bar and I was grateful to get it! I found a bench to sit on to catch my breath. Now the river was wider.

A bit further on, as I was walking directly next to the river, I passed a measuring stick showing how high it gets at times!

Finally I crossed a main road and could see the buildings of Ashton Keynes ahead! And there was my Inn, “The Longhouse” right in front of me!

The house was built in the mid-1600s and although since modernized, still has many of the original features. It’s a family home and I was the only outside guest this time. I was shown to my very cozy room and private bath and had a welcome cup of tea (and a hot shower!)

I made my way down to the town’s only pub and had a pint of ale (“Red Welsh Ale”) I read in the outside garden until the kitchen opened. A very nice meal, another pint and then back to my cozy room. Slept like a baby.

This morning, on to Cricklade!

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It’s been a while since I’ve traveled out of the country. I’d forgotten about the humorless TSA agents, the over-priced food at the airport, the narrow seats in coach, the re-heated airline meals and the inevitable wide-awake passengers who talk for the entire 6 hour journey.

However, I managed to sleep for a while and disembark without issue at London Heathrow. The entry and passport check has been completely streamlined and automated. I checked outside and saw that the morning was typical English rain and mist. The local weather said that I should expect this for most of my trip. But, since I’d be walking with a pack, I’ll take misty skies rather than broiling sun!

The newly opened Elizabeth line on the tube took me straight to Paddington and turns out I had enough stored on my old “Oyster” card to get me there. I treated myself to a traditional “full English breakfast” and a latte at a nearby cafe.

It was way too early to check into my hotel, so after charging my phone, I went up to the Decathlon on Kensington High Street to get myself a cheap walking stick and a water bottle. (I managed to lose the water bottle before I got back to my hotel, which must be some kind of record.) I then walked back through Kensington Gardens.

I sat for a bit by “Round Pond” where there are many birds…ducks, geese, swans, terns and of course, pigeons.

There were prominent signs advising you not to feed the birds. And there were many people feeding them. Including one man who was literally handing out full slices of bread from a bag.

Kensington Gardens are huge and beautiful. I walked along the “Princess Diana” memorial path and down to the Italian Gardens where I sat and had a glass of Rosé and a biscotti. I was thinking of walking down to the statue of Peter Pan (Barrie’s original book takes place in Kensington Gardens) but by then the jet lag was hitting me hard!

A smaller pack this time. I’m off to England to walk part of the Thames Path. A flat, pleasant stroll of about 60 miles from the “source” to Oxford, where I will moot (no, that’s not a typo) with a couple dozen old friends from my Lord of the Rings days. Easier than the Camino and more creature comforts, as I’ll be staying in lovely BnBs along the way! But the weather looks to be typical English rain, mist and fog…so I’ve brought my hiking poncho! I fly to London tomorrow!

https://www.nationaltrail.co.uk/en_GB/trails/thames-path/